Well, Navaratri is around the corner, and for this edition, I would like to talk about the Magical and Mystical Chottanikkara Temple, the abode of Chottanikkara Amma, who is both benign and fierce, Amma and BhadraKaali. Who cures her devotees of Mental Illness, wards off evil spirits, and calms the soul. The temple is a place of worship, home to invalids.
Chottanikkara Temple
Nestled in the quaint town of Chottanikkara, in the Ernakulam district of Kerala, stands the majestic and magical temple of Devi Rajarajeshwari (AdiParashakti), fondly called Chottanikkara Amma.
The temple doors open at 4:00 am with the blowing of the sacred conch and thousands of devotees throng to the holy sanctum to bow down to their Amma, and her healing power, to calm her children in anguish and mental suffering.
Chottanikkara Temple
Devi RajaRajeshwari and the Legend
So there are various theories about the temple and the Pratishtha, one of them being, that Amma is a Swayambhoo, the Shila or the statue made of rock manifested itself.
But what I have heard from my grandmother is the story of Adi Shankaracharya and Amma.
So legend says, that Adi Shankaracharya once prayed to Goddess Sharada (Ma Saraswati) and happy with his worship, she appeared before him. He requested her to come with him, to bless Kerala, from where he belonged.
She agreed, but on one condition. That she would walk behind him, and he had to lead the way. Also, that come what may, he wouldn’t turn, until they reached their destination.
Shankaracharya agreed and they walked, from Northern India to Kerala, and he knew she was following, from the sound of her anklets.
But when they arrived at Kollur (in Dakshina Karnataka, near Kerala), the sound of her anklets had suddenly become inaudible. And he broke his vow and turned, checking upon her.
There she was, right behind him, but as he had not kept his promise, Ma Saraswati placed herself at Kollur, and the temple today, is the famous Mookambika Temple. A shrine devoted to Buddhi, Vidya and intelligence.
But Shankaracharya did not give up. He coaxed the Goddess to visit Kerala, and she agreed.
So, it is believed, that, every morning, the Goddess offers Darshan to her devotees at Chottanikkara, and walks back to Mookambika in Kollur.
And thus, we understand the most important aspect about Chottanikkara Bhagawathy- She is Saraswati in the Morning, Lakshmi in the Afternoon and Durga in the Evening. Encompassing all forms of Female Divinity and Feminism.
Kollur Mookambika Devi
My Visit to Chottanikkara and Temple’s Description
My relatives in Kerala reside at Kochi / Ernakulam, so every time we visit them, a compulsory Darshan at Chottanikkara happens, and I am very glad it does.
The temple area covers hectares of land, and I am particularly fond of shrines that provide ample space to the devotees. The main temple and Devi’s idol are set in the middle, and yes, there will always be a queue but I have observed, it is very well managed.
We usually visit in the evening, and the Golden Idol of Melekkavu Bhagawathy (Upper Temple) is a sight to behold. Amma decked up in Pattu Sari and jewellery, and the atmosphere reverberating with the soulful chants of “AMME NARAYANA, DEVI NARAYANA,LAKSHMI NARAYANA, BHADRE NARAYANA” (Thus offering obeisanse to the Holy Mother, Saraswati, Lakshmi and Durga)
There is a Moorthy of Lord Vishnu as well, plus the temple boundaries house other deities too Like Lord Shiva, and Ganesha. There’s plenty of room to meditate, close your eyes, and blend into the divinity of the shrine.
Melakkavu Bhagavathy
Kizhukkavu Temple and Amma’s Enigmatic UGRA Roopam
Kizhukkavu temple is downstairs, to the eastern side of the main shrine, and houses the fierce and aggressive form of Chottanikkara Amma, BhadraKaali. Why do I call her enigmatic?
Because she is known to ward off evil spirits, demons, and cure people, especially women, of mental illness. Bhoota and Pishachas tremble before Amma, and a special Guruthy Pooja is performed by the head priest, after sunset, post the Melekkavu Attazha pooja( evening prayers), roughly at 8:45 pm.
Guruthy translates to Ritualistic Slaughter (Bali), offering of blood. These days, Guruthy Pooja is performed with a liquid made of turmeric and Kumkum, which is red in colour, resembling blood. This Guruthy liquid is prepared in 12 Cauldrons , and is offered to the holy fire, lit below a Pala Maram (Devil’s Tree). This tree is known to be the abode of Yakshis, Vetalas and Daityas, so they are supposed to get attracted by the blood and torched in the fire.
The Guruthy Pooja and it’s magical chants carry away all negative energies and cure people, (especially those who are supposedly victims of black magic) of mental trauma.
Bhadrakaali Roopam
Guruthy Liquid
Amma’s Mysterious Healing Power
“Have you been to Chottanikkara Preethi? I can take my kids, right? What is it about Guruthy?” Enquired one of my friends visiting Kerala.
I ensured her about the sanctity and beauty of the temple, explaining that the Guruthy Pooja wasn’t mandatory to attend.
But do you know, I have forever felt, there’s some element of mystery, some unknown power in Chottanikkara. In the compound, right outside the Garbhagriha, you would spot some women, a little unkempt, tightly held by their relatives, seated on the grass with their hands folded in Namaskara. One look and you would know, they are some of the many devotees who visit Chottanikkara for mental ailments. The Guruthy Pooja seems to have cured many.
And perhaps some ritual happened ages ago, but, on the Paala Maram, you can see long iron nails, which were perhaps hammered to the trunk, by haunted victims, with their foreheads.
Pala Maram with Nails.
Chottanikkara Amma for Me
For Me, she is Amma. AdiParashakti, all Goddesses in One Form. And when in trouble, pray to her, she will transform into Bhadrakaali and make sure you are protected. Forever.
Amme Narayana.
By Preethi Warrier
Preethi Warrier has completed her Masters in Electronics Engineering and is an Assistant Professor. She is one among the winners of the TOI Write India Campaign Season-1, for the famous author Anita Nair. She can be contacted at : warrier.preethi@yahoo.com
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