As a child, train journeys were my gateway to adventures. Gradually, they went on to leave behind indelible impressions on my mind. And they have been instrumental in shaping my worldviews to some extent, especially regarding travels.
Obviously, today more than three decades down the line while I continue to travel across geographies, train journeys of the past hold a special place in my heart.
Back in the days, train was the only mode of transport for long-distance journeys. For me, the journeys ranged from four hours to even 40 hours. Those days, especially in the late 1980s till the mid-1990s compartments were open and airy. Air-conditioned coaches were comparatively limited and availed mostly by the privileged. And people like us, travelling by sleeper class, not only carried food but also bedding – including bedsheets, air-pillows and even blankets.
I remember making my bed and filling the pillow with air through mouth—those train rides had a rhythm to itself. The sound of speeding wheels on the tracks clubbed with the winds gushing past the windows – had an allure of its own. The old-world charm exuded a magic – something that is difficult to find in today’s time.
One of the best parts of these journeys was the food. For some reason, I would feel hungrier than ever during these expeditions. For long-distance journeys, we of course carried home-cooked food, while for the shorter ones we relied on snacks like cakes and biscuits. And the best part was buying jhalmuri when the train halted at a particular station. The hawkers would prepare the jhalmuri instantly and serve them in newspaper wraps called thonga with a slice of coconut on top of it.
Another delicacy I devoured on was a hard-boiled egg. This was a regular during our Kolkata-to-Asansol train voyages. As the train halted at Bardhaman station, somehow or the other we would end up spotting a hawker selling hard-boiled eggs and lo behold! I would go gaga. I don’t know why…. but that particular boiled-egg served in a sheet of newspaper with some black salt, tasted heavenly.
While in an overnight train journey, my enthusiasm used to be even more. What excited me was the food that we carried in large steel tiffin carriers, which was later replaced by aluminum food boxes. In most cases it used to be keema gravy (chicken or mutton), chapatis and some salad. And when we boarded the train, somehow, I felt hungrier. Only to relish the delicious keema.
However, it wasn’t just the food. There was much more to those journeys. From dozens of vendors passing through the aisle selling snacks, cold drinks, books, magazines and even toys to strangers engaged in their own conversations to the ever-changing landscapes from the open windows – fields, rivers, villages and hills in the distant – everything was fascinating. It was like a living map unfolding in front of your eyes.
One summer, we were travelling to Haridwar via Doon Express. (Probably one of the slowest trains that would often get delayed). As far as I can recollect, I was barely seven and it was my first-ever super long-distance train journey – spending two nights in a train compartment. I was excited but was also a little confused as to how will we spend the entire time in the train, by doing what?
An incident I recollect when I was around 11 and was travelling to Barakar from Asansol. Barakar is a neighbourhood in Asansol little far off from the city centre. After spending two eventful days with my cousin and her family, it was time to return. Upon arriving at the station we realised tickets weren’t available. My jethi (aunt) decided to board the next available express train because she had a railway pass (but I knew she didn’t have any physical copy of it). I panicked pretty much. Travelling without a ticket is illegal and a punishable offence. We can be held up by the police or fined heavily!
Nonetheless, three of us, boarded the express train and surprisingly we could even manage three seats. During the total 40 minutes long journey, I was petrified and didn’t utter a single word. Upon arriving at Asansol station, my fear increased because now it would be time for us to produce the tickets as we cross the main gate of the station! What would we do?
We arrived Asansol on time and as we reached the exit, I saw the ticket checker standing at the left side. I was too fearful and grabbed my cousin’s hand tightly. But, just as the ticket checker asked for the tickets, my aunt smartly said “Pass achhey! (We have passes)” and lo we smoothly exited the gate!
I breathed a sigh of relief!
When I moved to college, overnight train journeys became like a daily routine. By then I had started travelling by the Rajdhani Express that was not only a fully AC train, but served some real good food.
I always looked forward to the appetizer – soup (mostly tomato) served an hour before dinner. It carried two soup sticks and a small cube of butter. I still recollect asking for extra butter and then sipping the fluid with dollops of butter floating on top. It was heavenly.
Sadly, they don’t serve soups at Rajdhani anymore.
I remember the food served at Sealdah Rajdhani was better and they even offered a continental option for dinner that served slices of bread, pieces of fried chicken and pasta.
For my entire student life, Rajdhani Express became like my second home. I mostly travelled with my friends and sometimes even alone.
Over time, as I grew and started working, I started air travel that gradually went on to become a staple, not because of the luxury or comfort, but more for saving time and convenience.
Despite everything, train journeys continue to remain close to my heart as I feel they offer a sense of connection to real India. I do miss the frequent train journeys of the past now. But, whenever possible, I do avail the classy Indian Railways!
By Sampurna Majumdar
Sampurna Majumder is a communications professional born and raised in Kolkata. Fascinated by creativity from a young age, she has a deep love for music, literature, and world cinema. An avid reader and traveler, she holds a Master’s degree in Literature from the University of Delhi.
