My Ma’s Ghugni And Its History

“Tutu, go and give this to the Bannerjees” ma handed me a steel container. I was the typical lazy teenager, loath to carry out errands like this.

“What is it” I asked curiously.

“A little ghugni I made” Ma explained.

“Ghugni! Why are you giving your precious ghugni to the Bannerjees? Aren’t we three and Baba enough to appreciate and enjoy it?” I literally exploded. (Sometimes, my Ma’s generosity drove me up the wall. Why did she insist on feeding sundry people with dishes she spent laborious hours cooking? And that too after single-handedly taking care of us three children, Baba and a maid-less household!)

“Did I ask your opinion?” Ma’s voice turned stern. “They gave us fish chops last week, and I don’t want to return their container empty.”

“Ugh those soggy fish chops! I couldn’t finish even one” I grimaced.

“Tutu, behave yourself. Those weren’t that bad.” I could sense her mood changing. I would soon have to be at the receiving end of a lecture on social niceties and neighbourly duties.

I tried once again, “But don’t give them your ghugni, Ma. I love it so much. It is so precious, and not much will be left for us.” I tried a different pleading approach. “You give them a box of rosogollas or something.”

“If you don’t go, I will send Bumba” Ma ignored my request and threatened instead. 

Uhh, Ohh, strategy full fail. My kid brother was ever ready to explore the Bannerjees’ treasure trove of comic books. He would happily carry the ghugni container to their house. 

I sulked all evening, but then who has ever won arguments with mothers?

Ma was like that. She would spend her energy and efforts toiling over-complicated dishes, only to distribute them to neighbours and their children. Needless to say, they were bowled over by her culinary skills. And as return gifts, they would send some of their indifferently cooked stuff that had to be then finished by us.

Growing up, some of my fondest memories are of my ma’s cooking. She was a self-taught cook and somehow managed to make the simplest meals memorable. 

I never tried learning her recipes before marriage. It was only after marriage when I went to another city, far away from the comfort of her cooking, that I had to learn her recipes to cater to my choosy palate. 

From my recipe book, here is a special dish from my mother. Yes, you guessed it right – the afore-mentioned Ghugni!

Ghugni or Chickpea Curry (Serves 4-5)

We Bengalis are quite fond of ghugni  – a popular and filling snack. The recipe given below will give you some delicious ghugni that you can have for lunch or dinner too.

Ingredients:

White chickpea or motor: 200-250 gms. (Soaked overnight and drained)

Potato: 1 Cubed and diced in small pieces (this is my touch, owing to my potato-loving hubby)

Coconut: 1/3, cut into small pieces

Onion: 2 Large, chopped into small pieces

Tomato: 1 chopped into small pieces

Ginger-garlic paste: 2 Tablespoons

Turmeric/haldi, Chilli, Coriander/Dhaniya powder: 1/2 teaspoon each

Cumin Seeds/Jeera (Whole): 1 1/2 Tablespoons (Dry roasted and ground)

Salt: To taste

Sugar: Half teaspoon

Mustard Oil/ Vegetable Oil: 2 Tablespoons

Method: 

– Pressure cook the soaked chickpea with double water and a pinch of soda, till 5-6 whistles. Check whether the chickpea is soft or pressure cook further. (Ghugni chickpeas need to be really soft and mushy).

– In a kadhai or frying pan, heat oil and fry the diced potatoes till golden brown. – Drain and remove on a plate. Fry coconut pieces till golden brown, and drain and remove from oil. Keep aside.

– Now add the chopped onions and fry till golden brown. Add tomato pieces and fry till soft. Add ginger garlic paste, along with turmeric, chilli and coriander powders. Saute and mix well with the onions, tomato and ginger garlic paste. 

– When the entire masala becomes a mushy paste, add the boiled chickpeas along with the water. Add fried potatoes, salt and sugar. 

– Cover with a lid, put the gas on sim, and let the chickpeas soak in the masala for fifteen-twenty minutes.

– Add the fried coconut pieces. By now the ghugni would have become a thick gravy. Adjust water according to taste. 

– Sprinkle roasted and ground jeera on the ghugni before removing from fire.

Garnish with coriander leaves. If you prefer it more spicy, dry roast and grind two red dried chillies along with the jeera. 

Enjoy the lip-smacking taste of Ma’s ghugni recipe!

For a more chatpata version: Add some tamarind chutney, 2-3 chopped green chillies and one finely sliced onion over the ghugni. Sprinkle sev and chopped coriander leaves, and serve hot! That’s how street vendors serve it in melas and roadside thelas!

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