So, I am—Shukto, quintessential vegetarian delicacy – the grand dame of Bengali kitchens. I’m fairly bitter, slightly smug concoction of seasonal veggies your dida insisted you eat before anything fun hit the plate. While others boast of spices and glamour, I arrive with bitter gourd and moral superiority.
Born in the ancient kitchens of Bengal, I was the brainchild of a deft war between taste and health. They added korola/uchhey (bitter gourd) to humble me, then quickly panicked and drowned me in milk, poppy seeds paste, and a guilt-tripped apology of a potato. Bitter yet creamy—much like your ex.
No celebration is complete without my cameo. Wedding lunch? Bring out the Shukto! House puja? Shukto. Tuesday lunch when Ma is feeling emotional? Definitely Shukto.
But, wait it’s the post-modern, post-pandemic era. The world has drastically changed. Bengal’s culinary palette has evolved and somewhere I feel …. no I don’t don’t feel….I am certain I am getting lost in this pandemonium…my cameo stints, especially at weddings have almost vanished and for pujas – well get your telescopes out if you want to find me….but I am 99.99 percent convinced you will be disappointed.
At times, when I am depressed, I visit my therapist, occasionally.
By the way, you know her – she is shada bhaat (boiled rice). She has been my best friend since ages but now, she has also turned into my therapist. I visited her last week and poured my heart out. Sharing some excerpts –
Me(Shukto):- Hello Bhaat Rani, good afternoon!
Shada bhaat: Hello, my shuktuni sweetheart, how have you been?
Me(Shukto):- (very anxious) Yet again! Again, I got replaced by something swanky …. Some Thad (read Thai) green curry or something at a wedding lunch!
Shada bhaat: Aww! Please sit … or else… better lie down on the couch. I will dim the light and adjust the AC temperature.
Shada bhaat does the needful. Meanwhile Shukto has made herself comfortable in the couch.
Shada bhaat: Tell me dear… what’s troubling you?
Me(Shukto):- What’s troubling me? Someone who originated during ancient times, ruled Bengal’s culinary landscape during the 15th and 16th century, finds mention in Sri Chaitanya’s Mangal Kavya, evolved with the Portuguese regime, graced widow palettes – is now simply getting replaced!
Is AI set to replace cooking too???
Shada bhaat listens quietly while Shukto continues
Me(Shukto):- I mean…. what is with this new generation – they call it GenZ who are simply obsessed with everything tech and western including food. Don’t heritage…culture…tradition matter to them? Choosing Thak Curry (read Thai) over me for a wedding lunch and arguing the colour “green” is common to both! Uff! Disgusting!
Shada bhaat: I feel you dear. But, even you need to understand. Its 2025 and not 1325! The world has changed – societies have evolved; so has peoples’ taste… you need to accept it. They don’t hate you… it’s just that the younger generation likes experimenting. They are courageous and that’s in a way good. In fact, with time, many GenX, millennials and even some BabyBoomers are also experimenting with global cuisine!
Me(Shukto):- hmm. But green colour… in me?
Shada bhaat: Well….uchhey or korola (bitter gourd) they do add a subtle greenish hue…. Don’t they?
Me(Shukto):- Hmm. Kind of agree.
Shada bhaat: Please don’t be upset….see, change is the only constant and depending upon regions – our personalities too embrace subtle new traits – simply making us more palatable.
Me(Shukto):- How? Please explain….
Shada bhaat: You forgot maachher matha (fish head) being added to you? Once very popular in east Bengal (now Bangladesh) and continues to be prepared till date even if occasionally.
Me(Shukto):- Well… yes… but am more concerned about this part of Bengal! From annaprashan, to biyebari to shraddho…I graced every occasion… and now I am struggling to find my place at Bengali wedding feasts! I think I will soon become a “Bitter Lost Recipe.”
Shada bhaat:- (politely assertive) Noooo! And you are not “Bitter” , you are “Layered!” Who else helps reduce acidity, sugar and ex-boyfriend ordeal?
Me(Shukto):- What about my folks – radhuni, kanchkola, posto paste, sometimes mustard paste and bori… I feel for bori a lot you know Rani! This GenZ or whatever….they don’t know how to prepare bori!
Shada bhaat:- (Laughing loud) HaHaha …. I bet even millennials and some GenX also don’t know! Because, you get to buy boris !
Me(Shukto):- Whaat!
Shada bhaat:- Relax! Breath. Don’t worry sweetie! You are not going anywhere – with your kind of folks mixed with little milk and a spoonful of ghee – it’s more than cooking – it’s balancing chakras!
…
I pondered over. Bhaat Rani is right. Even she is widely modified globally … from being jasmine flavoured in China to sticky rice in south-east Asia to slim long-grain Basmati is the northern belt of India…. Yup!
She is RIGHT!
I may be bitter, but am friendly to the gut. And I may be the last one to be remembered but I, Shukto will always remain the FIRST to be served!
By Sampurna Majumdar
Sampurna Majumder is a communications professional born and raised in Kolkata. Fascinated by creativity from a young age, she has a deep love for music, literature, and world cinema. An avid reader and traveler, she holds a Master’s degree in Literature from the University of Delhi.
