For the British residing in 19th-century India, life often felt like an exile. They missed not just the comforts of home but also their familiar food habits.
An interesting anecdote tells of English memsahibs packing lunch boxes for their empire-building husbands. These boxes typically contained slices of bacon roast from Sunday’s lunch, cold pork pies, leftover stew, and a few boiled eggs. Once in India, their ambitious brown sahib colleagues were fascinated by these dishes, believing that the bland, seemingly ‘flavorless’ food was the secret to British power.
Over time, the British merged their “Western comfort” with “Eastern splendor,” giving rise to Anglo-Indian cuisine—a unique fusion of flavors. This culinary evolution was initially driven by English memsahibs and their Indian cooks (khansamas). They experimented by adding local spices like cumin, cayenne, chilies, pepper, cinnamon, and cloves to traditional European dishes, especially soups and stews. As a result, the once-bland meals transformed into vibrant fusion dishes.
However, Anglo-Indian cuisine evolved differently across regions. An Anglo-Indian in Kolkata had a distinct palate compared to one in Goa. Among the many Anglo-Indian delicacies created in Bengal, the Burdwan Stew stands out. While its name doesn’t necessarily confirm a connection to the town of Burdwan (Bardhaman), the possibility cannot be entirely ruled out.
The Origins of Burdwan Stew
The earliest reference to Burdwan Stew appears in Culina Famulatrix Medicinæ: Or, Receipts in Modern Cookery, with a Medical Commentary (1806) by Alexander Hunter. This fascinating book describes the dish as follows:
An Indian Burdwan Stew
A half-grown fowl, already boiled, is cut up and placed in a stew pan with three tablespoons of anchovy essence, three tablespoons of Madeira wine, a little water, a lump of butter rolled in flour, some shredded onions, and cayenne pepper to taste. The mixture is stewed over a slow fire until the onions become tender. Once served, a fresh lime is squeezed over the dish. Cold boiled or roasted lamb, or even goat kid, can be prepared similarly.
Culinary historian and researcher Pritha Sen notes that there is no concrete evidence linking this dish to the royal kitchens of Burdwan. However, she speculates that khansamas who once worked in the Burdwan royal household may have carried the recipe forward. She also highlights that many Anglo-Indian dishes were named after places where they were commonly prepared, especially when local ingredients were used to appeal to European palates.
Spices from home gardens—known in Bengali as Baganey Moshla (literally “garden-grown spices”)—played a crucial role in these dishes. Chef Saby Gorai describes Burdwan Stew as a “perfect blend of a European base with Indian exotic spices,” making it one of the most distinctive Anglo-Indian creations.
How Was Burdwan Stew Prepared?
Often referred to as Garden Stew, Burdwan Stew was typically made using game birds like turkey, partridge, pheasant, duck, or country chicken, slow-cooked in a rich beef or lamb broth. Sometimes, boiled potatoes were added for texture. The Indian spices infused into the dish gave it a distinctly local twist, making it popular among British officials and elite Baboos of Bengal.
Interestingly, some variations of the dish featured fish, particularly anchovies, which were widely favored.
Loll Shraub – The Perfect Companion
One of the most intriguing aspects of Burdwan Stew was its traditional accompaniment—Loll Shraub, served in a clear glass. This name was simply an Anglicized version of Laal Sharaab, referring to red claret wine, which was a staple beverage for the British.
The British preference for claret soon influenced Bengali Baboos, many of whom admired their colonial rulers and saw their rule as a “blessing in disguise.” Regardless of personal opinions, one thing was certain—the perfect pairing of Loll Shraub with a hot bowl of Burdwan Stew was an experience savored by many.
Conclusion
The British in 19th-century Bengal successfully blended their culinary traditions with Indian influences, giving rise to remarkable fusion dishes. Burdwan Stew, with its rich flavors and historical significance, remains a testament to the cultural exchange that defined the colonial era—one where food, much like history, was shaped by both adaptation and innovation.
About the Author
Sampurna Majumder is a communications professional born and raised in Kolkata. Fascinated by creativity from a young age, she has a deep love for music, literature, and world cinema. An avid reader and traveler, she holds a Master’s degree in Literature from the University of Delhi.
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